Château Mouton Rothschild 1986

The 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot that was picked October 2-16. Winemaker Philippe Dhalluin, who was not working at the property at the time, told me that the pH was quite low at 3.54 when it is usually around 3.75, due to tartaric acid naturally in the vineyards. It has a powerful and intense bouquet as always: exemplary scents of graphite and cedar, a touch of black pepper and incense. It seems to unroll in the glass, like an engine revving its engine. The palate is beautifully balanced with its characteristic firm tannic structure, a Mouton-Rothschild with backbone and masculinity. Layers of dark fruit intermingled with mint and graphite, a hint of liquorice emanating from the Merlot, unfold gently and my God, it's incredibly long. It's not like the 1985 Mouton-Rothschild which is so meaty and generous. This is serious, aristocratic Mouton, a real wine for laying down and yes, I think drinkers will have to wait for it to reach its true peak.

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